Breeding for health

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Skinny rooster
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Re: Breeding for health

Post by Skinny rooster » Fri Dec 18, 2015 3:11 pm

When I first started breeding barred rocks for better laying, my biggest regret was selling off a rooster called Bill, not only were his daughters excellent layers, they stayed good into second and third summer. Also the none laying breeds crossed to him had very productive daughters. Not keeping him to see the results was a mistake.

On another note, I can see breeding for health. It's interesting to see how some breeds react to certain diseases, some hit hard, while some barely affected. Even within a breed itself. My black and blue Cochins almost never get sick, while the buff and white catch everything.
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windwalkingwolf
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Re: Breeding for health

Post by windwalkingwolf » Fri Dec 18, 2015 4:19 pm

I do as OC does...when a pairing turns out good birds, I breed them for as long as they cooperate in the egg laying and fertility department, which can be a very very long time lol. But in the layer pen, that's what I want, birds that are healthy and productive for years and years. My Jersey breeders tend to be 'old' birds as well, because they take so long to mature...a swan can turn into an ugly duckling at a year old (rarely, but i wait just in case lol) or vice versa, so none are allowed to breed at all until I'm sure about their type qualities. I haven't had any die of flip since i last kept meat chickens, not even elderly birds 12 years plus, but i know it can happen. If it happened at 10 years old i might ignore it (though probably not, I'd likely tag their offspring and keep an eye on them), but if it happened at 2 years old or less, I'd probably chase them around the yard for a bit and see who starts mouth breathing first and look for blue comb tips. And no breeding for them! Lol. But if I was breeding a fast-maturing bird strictly for exhibition, and had very limited space, I'd likely do what Cuttlefish does and turn birds over much more often. Although in my experience, a 3 year old pair will often produce much better looking offspring than they did at a year old, and you can be reasonably sure they're hardy.
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Cuttlefish
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Re: Breeding for health

Post by Cuttlefish » Fri Dec 18, 2015 4:54 pm

Well, that does it. I need another coop... for graduates. :bow:
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Ontario Chick
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Re: Breeding for health

Post by Ontario Chick » Fri Dec 18, 2015 6:59 pm

Cuttlefish wrote:Well, that does it. I need another coop... for graduates. :bow:
Turns out that I couldn't afford the luxury of doing it right until we added another pen.
The space limitations called for cutting corners, (or so I thought) but in the long run it ends up costing you.
This must be the bases for "chicken math" ;)
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Robbie
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Re: Breeding for health

Post by Robbie » Fri Dec 18, 2015 7:30 pm

LOL seems the correct answer is always "Need more chickens".
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Cuttlefish
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Re: Breeding for health

Post by Cuttlefish » Fri Dec 18, 2015 8:41 pm

Well the important thing is that we've made it official... so if my DH asks, I'M NOT CRAZY. : )
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Robbie
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Re: Breeding for health

Post by Robbie » Sat Dec 19, 2015 8:49 am

Cuttlefish, show him the documented proof :-)
Either that or we're all crazy. But you don't have to mention that.
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G Williams
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Re: Breeding for health

Post by G Williams » Sat Dec 19, 2015 4:00 pm

I keep a larger pen for hens that I'm not breeding for my own replacements. It ages the hens and gives you a back up in case you make some poor mating decisions that are not readily apparent early on. You don't have to breed every chicken every year if you don't have the facilities.
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Ontario Chick
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Re: Breeding for health

Post by Ontario Chick » Sat Dec 19, 2015 4:14 pm

G Williams wrote: You don't have to breed every chicken every year if you don't have the facilities.
Good point, I think sometime we forget that. Even the older proven hens that don't lay that much anymore, put in to your breeding pens save wear and tear on the birds and there is always a chance you will get some good long laying ofspring or two, can only improve the genetic pool.
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